Dear Carol,-

What a WONDERFUL trip! I highly recommend Ireland to anyone. Of course, we could never have pulled this off without you and Robin and the outstanding service you provided. We cannot thank you enough.

Ireland is just the perfect vacation. It doesn't matter if you want a thousand things to do, or just a little peace and quiet - it's all there. I have never been anywhere in the world that I felt as safe or as appreciated by the locals. Everyone is warm and inviting. Ireland seems to be the one remaining spot in Europe where Americans are welcomed with open arms. Also, with Ireland now using the Euro rather than the Pound Sterling, the exchange rate is more favorable to Americans and so prices are much cheaper than in England or Scotland.

Although it was great to be there for St. Patrick's Day, the weather this time of year makes me think we will do summer next time. That said, St Patrick's Day itself was beautiful - about 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) and sunny. Every day started with rain, but it usually stopped around noon and the afternoons and evenings were very pleasant. The worst day was our last - Saturday. The temp hovered around 6 degrees C (40 degrees F), with a 40-knot wind off the ocean and a steady rain, all day. Even still, we were able to take refuge by shopping and sitting by the ubiquitous roaring hearth in the local pubs. By the way, don't let anyone tell you the Irish don't celebrate St. Patrick's like we do! We started out that day in Donegal Town, drove through Sligo, and had lunch in Westport and dinner in Galway City. In every town it was like the 4^th of July in the US - fireworks, parades and parties everywhere.

I liked the self-drive. It wasn't nearly as difficult as I feared. Driving on the left side of the road takes about an hour to master. Everything is generally well marked - in both English and Gaelic! For my genealogical pilgrimage, we drove well up into the Northwest - Inishowen Peninsula, County Donegal, often on the "R" (rural) rather than the much better "N" (National) roads. It is hard to believe just how narrow some of the roads are - even the "N" roads. Some of the "R" roads require pulling off to allow on-coming traffic to pass. Still, I'm really glad we stayed on the west coast. Everyone told us nightmare stories about the traffic and the drivers around Dublin and along the much more congested east coast. The west had light traffic everywhere except Sligo and Galway.

Every B&B was great. Breakfasts were so plentiful that we often only snacked for lunch, because we were still full from the morning. And despite what you may have heard about Ireland or the UK - the food was fantastic! Even our picky kids found plenty on the menus that they liked. There are virtually no chain restaurants (except a couple of McDonald's), so you are usually eating in small, family owned places and local pubs. One tip - the beef is very good, but they tend to over-cook it compared to the US. If you like your steak medium-rare, order it rare and it will be perfect.

I am so glad we chose Ballynahinch as our castle destination. It is more a "hunting and fishing" lodge feel than the grandeur of a fairytale castle, but for us, it was perfect. It is very secluded, in the foothills of the "12 Bens" inside the Connemara National Park. The facility was beautiful, but comfy. The service was unbelievable. I have traveled to all 50 states for my work. I have occasionally stayed at the finest hotels available in places like New York, Las Vegas and San Francisco. I have been lucky enough to dine in some of the best restaurants in the US. I cannot recall ever having had a better meal or better service than our dinner at Ballynahinch Castle. It was not cheap at 45 Euro prix fixe/per person, but it was not outrageous, either. And that price included a four-course, European-style meal, along with non-alcoholic drinks, dessert and gratuity. Best of all, it included service that made our daughters feel like princesses at the ball!

It was a trip our girls will never forget - and frankly, neither will we!

The Daugherty's